Some days seem created to go surfing; light trade winds, 3-4 foot SW swell running,
occasional clouds’ respite from the Bali sun.
Loaded up and rode to Bingin, climbed stairs and ready to paddle out until I noticed the crack all the way around the fin box. Too far to ride back and change boards.
Oh yes, there were some good ones.
Relaxed a while, swam, enjoyed the beauty of the beach and floating in the shallows. Watched a lot of good, not-that-crowded waves…
Later the same day, feeling unjustly robbed of a session, I grabbed my other board and had a surf. On my 3rd wave I was hit by my own surfboard in the face and mouth, cutting open my lip and gums.
Some days maybe we aren’t meant to surf, however bad we may want to. (pictures from actual day of this story)